Red Deer Loin With Veal Osso Buco Ragout

Osso Buco
  • 6 large veal shanks, cut in 2 1/2-inch slices
  • Salt and pepper
  • All purpose flour; for dredging
  • 7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 1/2 cups dry white wine
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped onion
  • 3/4 cup chopped carrots
  • 3/4 cup chopped celery
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 3 to 4 cups chicken or veal broth
  • 2 (28 ounce) cans diced tomatoes
  • 3 teaspoons tomato paste
  • 6 fresh parsley sprigs
  • 4 fresh thyme sprigs
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • Pepper
Spatzle
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons ground, toasted hazelnuts
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 4 1/2 pounds red deer loins, cleaned
  • Salt
  • 1/2 cup toasted and ground black, green, and pink peppercorns
  • Butter and olive oil, as needed for sautéing
Ragout
  • 2 cups red and yellow pearl onions, peeled and blanched
  • 3 tablespoons minced shallots (about 1 ounce)
  • 3 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic (about 1 ounce)
  • 2 cups hedgehog mushrooms
  • 2 cups chanterelle mushrooms
  • 3 tablespoons chopped thyme (about 1/2 ounce)
  • 1/3 cup Madeira (about 3 ounces)
  • 2 tablespoons fresh heavy cream (about 1 ounce)
  • 2 cups reduced veal stock
  • Salt and pepper
  • 2 (28 ounce) cans diced tomatoes
  • Fresh Oregon truffles (optional)
For Osso Buco, season veal with salt and pepper and dredge in flour, shaking off excess. In heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons olive oil over moderately high heat until foam subsides. Brown veal shanks in batches, adding butter and oil as needed. Transfer shanks as they brown to a warm platter. Add wine to the skillet and boil, scraping up the brown bits from bottom and sides of the skillet, until liquid is reduced to about 1/2 cup. Reserve in a small bowl.

 

In flameproof casserole, large enough to hold shanks in single layer, cook onion, carrots, celery, and garlic in remaining butter over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened. Add the shanks with juices, reserved wine mixture, and enough broth to cover shanks. Mix tomatoes and paste; spread over all. Sprinkle with herbs; salt and pepper to taste. Bring to simmer over moderately high heat. Cover and braise on middle rack of preheated 325°F oven for 4 hours or until the veal is tender.

Transfer shanks with slotted spoon to ovenproof serving dish. Cool and cut in matchstick-size pieces. Strain pan juices into a saucepan, pressing hard on solids to extract liquid, and skim fat. Boil for 15 minutes or until reduced to about 3 cups. Reserve and use for ragout.

For Spatzle, combine eggs and milk in mixing bowl; stir in flour, hazelnuts, salt, and nutmeg, beating until smooth. Drop by teaspoonfuls into large pot of boiling water. Cook 2 to 3 minutes.

Drain.

Season deer loins with salt and pepper. Sear in a hot sauté pan with butter and olive oil. Transfer to roasting pan. Roast in 425º F oven to desired internal temperature; 120º F for rare, 130ºF for medium rare. Reserve.

Meanwhile, sauté Spatzle until lightly crisp in 1 ounce butter in a hot sauté pan. Then, add pearl onions and cook until lightly browned. Add shallots, garlic, mushrooms, and thyme. Deglaze pan with Madeira, cream, and veal stock. Add veal shank meat, cut in matchstick-size pieces. Simmer and reduce until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Keep warm. Just before serving, stir in tomatoes and sliced truffles; heat through.

Slice deer loin and arrange attractively on top of Osso Buco Ragout. Spoon Spatzle and sauce over all.